Amboseli at Kilimanjaro and trip to Mt. Kenya

In the morning there was an extensive spread of fantastic food. I usually start with a custom omelet made to order in the dining room. After packing I headed for the van with Paul our driver. We needed an early start as we were going back to Nairobi for lunch. Our drive started back through the animal filled swamp we had toured yesterday. However, we ran into a pride of three lions and a fresh wildebeest kill. Two lions were on one side of the road and a third was on the other side eating its kill. There were many other safari vans around but it didn’t seem to bother the lions. They may just think that the vans are a strange type of elephant. We have now seen all the big five animals (elephant, rhinoceros, hippo, lion and leopard) except that we saw cheetah rather than leopards. After the lions we saw a group of hyenas at their den or holes in the ground.

We drove across the dry Amboseli lake to get to a main road for the trip back to Nairobi. However, the van started making a lot of noise on the very bumpy road and it turned out that a metal plate that shields the transmission had come loose and was dragging. Our driver Paul did an amazing repair job. Lacking a lift he drove the left front tire up onto a rock Bob provided and used his jack to raise the metal plate. It seems that a bolt had sheared off. Paul was able to remove the stub and steal a bolt from a seat with which to replace the one that had broken. While we were there a group of Maasi came up from a nearby village to watch the proceedings. The adults were in traditional garb but some of the children were in school uniforms. I don’t think it will be too long until the Maasi give up their traditional ways completely. They are the last tribe to stay natural but technology is coming.

After the fix we headed for Nairobi over a combination of really bad and fair roads. There is a lot of road construction going on in Kenya so there are many detours. At a rest stop with a caring shop I asked where the carvings were made fearing that they were made in China or Malaysia. They took me around back and there were two guys making some new carvings. I assume that they also purchase carvings from villagers in the area.

In Nairobi we had lunch at the elegant Safari hotel that included beautiful gardens and a wooden roof with beams that reminded me of the hotel at Yellowstone. They had a good local instrumental group to play during lunch. We then headed out for Mt. Kenya (the second largest in Africa that has 5 glaciers) and the Mt. Kenya lodge. The roads were the best I have seen in Kenya with the start being dual lane. As we proceeded north the environment changed becoming much greener and wetter. More farms and plots with all sorts of vegetables and bananas were along the road. The guide book says the Mt. Kenya lodge is actually in a rain forest but a cooler one. The hotel is wooden and different than any we have been at. It is all wood with each room looking out onto a water hole. When I looked out my window there were about 30 Cape buffalo lounging around the water. A little while later they got up and ambled off. The hotel will ring your room during the night to alert you to the animals that are currently at the water hole.

More pictures from Amboseli at Kilimanjaro Kenya

Today I was up at 6:00 to get ready for a 7:30 departure to Amboseli national park at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro. The Japanese dentist was up early watching the water holes from the veranda of the hotel and had spotted a hippopotamus in the water. All I could see were a couple of nostrils and occasionally a back. He never got further out of the water while we were there. Previously we had seen many hippopotamuses in other wet locations but this is the only one at the lodge and he or she was alone.

Bob, Kay, Julie and I then set off with our driver Paul through the Massai village we had visited before onward to Amboseli park and Kilimanjaro. The road was very dusty with a stop at a village were I purchased a mask. Julie helped me bargain with the vendors. We purchased some things as there is no middleman as in the markets in Nairobi. The difference between the asking price and the final price is amazing. We went from a volcanic higher area down into the plains and then up again as we approached the mountain. The land changed for bush to basic farming as we rose in altitude. Coming out on another plain we approached a gigantic grass swamp with thousands of animals. It was spring fed and was a band around the base of Kilimanjaro. All the usual animals were there but in vast numbers. However, while we saw a number of kills we did not encounter any lions or leopards.

We then proceeded to Amboseli Serena Lodge in a small forest on the edge of the treeless swamp. It has somewhat nicer accommodations than our last hotel but without the amazing veranda overlooking the water holes. We could have seen every animal just by sitting on the veranda at the last lodge. However, this lodge is on the side of a game trail the animals use at night so again one can sit on the veranda and watch the animals go by as one sips one’s gin and tonic.

After a swim in a beautiful pool we went out again in the safari van in search of lion and leopard. The start was slow but we saw thousands of animal next to and in the shallow swamp. We even saw more hippos grazing while semi submerged in the grass. This is not a typical swamp but a wet area without trees that is mainly mud and short plants. Zebras and Gnus stay on the hard ground next to the swamp so that they can run if attacked. Elephants and hippos wade right in.

We were in search of cats and initially saw none but eventually came across a lion taking a snooze. We wanted to see some action but all he did in half and hour was to turn over. We headed back somewhat dejected. However, we soon came across 4 leopards that were stalking wildebeest. There were thousands that got out of the way of the cats. After the cats passed the wildebeest seemed to follow the cats. Strange? However, the cats did not seem to find the right beast so never connected. We returned to the Amboseli Serena lodge. After freshening up I sat on the veranda and watched hundreds of animals pass at close range as the hotel was right next to a major game path. They were mainly zebra, Gnu and various antelope. Not long after the parade stopped for the night. Bob and Kay came later and did not get to see any of the animals. We then had an elegant Swahili dinner that included goat on a spit which was very tasty. There were many other delicious dishes, some I recognized. I went to be to bed by 9:30. We have really been on the go and the extra sleep was welcome.

Climbing a hill in the bush at Kiliguni in Taso park

After breakfast we had another game drive through the woods. This time we went more up into the mountains and almost saw a leopard as one other van had but it went into hiding before we got there.

After returning a group of us went on a nature hike with an armed guard and naturalist. It started off flat over the well warn paths used by the animals coming to the water holes at the lodge. Then it started up one of the five sisters hills. The path was steep at it was hot being late morning. All of the group stopped part way up with Andy, I and the naturalist continuing all the way to the top. This was no small hill but at the top there was a big pile of animal dung so something big had made it up the steep sides to the top. It was so steep that we even had trouble going down without falling. One girl fell landing in a pile of elephant dung which covered her face and pants.

In the late afternoon we went on another game drive up into the hills and saw the usual suspects but no cats.

After an excellent dinner at the hotel hundreds of cape buffalo cam to the water hole and pushed the elephants out.

Second day at Kiliguni lodge Kenya on safari

I am sitting on my rooms veranda watching antelope and zebra at the waterhole n from of the hotel.. Today I got up at 5:45 for some coffee and cake before heading out for an early game drive and a champaign breakfast. We headed out at 6:15 for the bush in Van three. Our van contains Bob and Kate and Andy and Amerita(?) and me. Our hope was to see some lions but we were a little too late. We saw tracks but no cats. Many other animals were in view including various antelope, birds, hyenas, ostrich, zebras, giraffes, wart hogs, and a charging rhinoceros. It is amazing how fast such a large animal can move. Fortunately he or she stopped within ten feet of our safari bus. It has a top that pops up so we can stand inside and look out but the vans is not very substantial and would crumple with the impact of a rhino. We continued on until we reached a large rock. On top of the rock were tables and a full kitchen in the open air. We proceeded to a delightful Champaign breakfast with eggs bacon potatoes etc. as well as individually made omelets. The views were spectacular.

We returned to the lodge for a rest before a 2:30 trip to a Massai village and additional game excursion. I am not sure that it was a functioning village but was interesting with women and children jumping up and down while singing. The men were out herding cattle. I purchased a bracelet.
We had another game drive seeing a number of the animals typical of the area.

Leaving on the first safari after Rotary Medical Mission Narobi Kenya

I had to get up at 4:45 to be ready to leave Darsi’s at 5:30 so that he could drop me off at the hotel for a 6:00 departure to the Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge for a three day stay. We took the main road to Mombasa which they are turning into a super highway. However, much work is to be done and in the work sections the ride was horrible, especially in a van with now shock absorbers. We stopped half way at a gas station and gift shop which had sorely needed toilets. However, the men’s portion was more or less out in the open. By this time many in the group were on lomotil which stops peristalsis. However, the shaking of the van compensated for the lack of internal movement. We continued eventually turning off on a dirt road for 39 km more to the Kilaguni Lodge. What a surprise. It is beautiful. The main section (a giraffe is walking by as I write this on my rooms veranda) having one whole 150 ft. wall completely open to the water hole where the animals congregate. It is so beautiful that it is difficult to describe. The weather is very pleasant so that no heat or air conditioning is required. All the meals on site are served in the main section so one can have this wide panoramic view of the water hole, mountains and savanna. Kilimanjaro is in the hazy distance.

In the afternoon we took a game drive to a river that had hippos and crocodiles as well as monkeys and other fauna. The river was spring fed and seemed to emerge from some rocks. It goes all the way to Mombasa. Water is taken for Mombasa upstream of the hippo area, for good reason. They are not the cleanest of animals. They live in the river during the day and go out to graze, sometimes several kilometers away, during the night. Down the stream a ways they had built a circular structure in the water with windows so one could see fish and other marine life. There were a series of circular benches each at a different level.

In the evening we had a very good dinner served individually rather than the usual buffet while looking out over the animals drinking at the water hole. There were a number of elephants then and through most of the night. During the night there was a lion but I missed it.

Nairobi to the Kilaguni lodge to start the Safari

I had to get up at 4:45 to be ready to leave Darsi’s at 5:30 so that he could drop me off at the hotel for a 6:00 departure to the Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge for a three day stay. We took the main road to Mombasa which they are turning into a super highway. However, much work is to be done and in the work sections the ride was horrible, especially in a van with now shock absorbers. We stopped half way at a gas station and gift shop which had sorely needed toilets. However, the men’s portion was more or less out in the open. By this time many in the group were on lomotil which stops peristalsis. However, the shaking of the van compensated for the lack of internal movement. We continued eventually turning off on a dirt road for 39 km more to the Kilaguni Lodge. What a surprise. It is beautiful. The main section (a giraffe is walking by as I write this on my rooms veranda) having one whole 150 ft. wall completely open to the water hole where the animals congregate. It is so beautiful that it is difficult to describe. The weather is very pleasant so that no heat or air conditioning is required. All the meals on site are served in the main section so one can have this wide panoramic view of the water hole, mountains and savanna. Kilimanjaro is in the hazy distance.

In the afternoon we took a game drive to a river that had hippos and crocodiles as well as monkeys and other fauna. The river was spring fed and seemed to emerge from some rocks. It goes all the way to Mombasa. Water is taken for Mombasa upstream of the hippo area, for good reason. They are not the cleanest of animals. They live in the river during the day and go out to graze, sometimes several kilometers away, during the night. Down the stream a ways they had built a circular structure in the water with windows so one could see fish and other marine life. There were a series of circular benches each at a different level.

In the evening we had a very good dinner served individually rather than the usual buffet while looking out over the animals drinking at the water hole. There were a number of elephants then and through most of the night. During the night there was a lion but I missed it.

My first day in Nairobi and climbing a volcano

I was very fortunate being one of a few Rotarians who was privileged to stay at the home of a local Rotarian and Doctor, Darsi and his wife Renita. He has a very interesting history and is very active in the treatment of AIDS victims.

7:30 am Darsi and I set off for a volcano in the rift valley north of Nairobi. I had arrived at 11:00 pm the night before. We met two friends that work for the U.S. Government and live in Kenya. It was a hand over hand climb near the top and I was wondering if my trip would be cut short by a coronary before it even got started. I did survive and enjoyed the spectacular views down steep foliage covered sides of the volcano from a very narrow path.
Evening

Darsi Lotai and Renita prepared a lovely dinner on their veranda of grilled or stir fried fish and salad. Earlier I had gone shopping with Darsi at a very upscale mall for Kenya to get veggies from the green grocer. These drives show the most affluent and most depressed areas of Nairobi. There is a vast difference. On our drives to the volcano and then the green grocer, Darsi gave me more of his history. He is ethnically Indian but was borne in Nairobi. His grandfather came over to Kenya as an indentured servant for 50 rupees. It took him 5 years to pay it back. This grandfather must have been very industrious as he started several businesses. Darsi’s father was able to send 4 children to college with Darsi completing medical school. He has been involved in polio and then AIDS working for the government and several companies. At one time during the genocide in Rwanda he personally drove medicines from a pharmaceutical company to Rwanda as all the usual means of conveyance were shut down.

My hosts had invited a couple to join us. The lady was an ex-BA flight attendant who was currently running a bed and breakfast in Nairobi that seemed to cater to NGO personnel. Paula was having trouble getting paid. Her companion was a very interesting African who had spent 5 years in North Korea training as an insurgent.

Kenya Rotary AIDS trip

I am leaving for Kenya on September 19^th to participate in this Rotary function. We will work in AIDS clinics and stay with local Rotarians. The flyer below gives basic information about the trip.

A blog of the trip can be found at http://kenyaaidscarl.blogspot.com/

Ericson 35 Sailboat for Sale

An excellent expample of the popular Ericson 35 Sailboat is offered for Sale Gulf of Maine Yacht Sales suzanne@gomys.com (207) 899-0909

Cycling on Martha's Vinyard MA Youth Hostel

On June 17th three of us dropped are cars in Pocasset MA on the Cape and headed to the ferry at Woods hole on our bikes. It was $3 per person and $3 per bike. We then had a swim and cycled to the youth hostel in W. Tisbury. We took day trips from the hostel where we stayed in co-ed bunk room and cooked some of our own meals. The weather was fantastic. On of the best sites was Poly’s arboretum. On the 20th I returned and my friends stayed another day.

Ericson 35 for sale on the hard

Yesterday I painted the bottom so that it is ready to launch after they complete fiberglassing the bottom of the keel. The work was to have been done this week but perhaps they will get to it next week.

fox hunt Concord MA ONBH May 2008

The field rounds a beautiful pond

The hounds are ready

Can-Am Spyder

There is no fool like an old fool

Me with my new spyder ready for the open road. Thanks to Steve for the picture.