Saturday, October 4, 2008
















Today I was up at 6:00 to get ready for a 7:30 departure to Amboseli national park at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro. The Japanese dentist was up early watching the water holes from the veranda of the hotel and had spotted a hippopotamus in the water. All I could see were a couple of nostrils and occasionally a back. He never got further out of the water while we were there. Previously we had seen many hippopotamuses in other wet locations but this is the only one at the lodge and he or she was alone.

Bob, Kay, Julie and I then set off with our driver Paul through the Massai village we had visited before onward to Amboseli park and Kilimanjaro. The road was very dusty with a stop at a village were I purchased a mask. Julie helped me bargain with the vendors. We purchased some things as there is no middleman as in the markets in Nairobi. The difference between the asking price and the final price is amazing. We went from a volcanic higher area down into the plains and then up again as we approached the mountain. The land changed for bush to basic farming as we rose in altitude. Coming out on another plain we approached a gigantic grass swamp with thousands of animals. It was spring fed and was a band around the base of Kilimanjaro. All the usual animals were there but in vast numbers. However, while we saw a number of kills we did not encounter any lions or leopards.

We then proceeded to Amboseli Serena Lodge in a small forest on the edge of the treeless swamp. It has somewhat nicer accommodations than our last hotel but without the amazing veranda overlooking the water holes. We could have seen every animal just by sitting on the veranda at the last lodge. However, this lodge is on the side of a game trail the animals use at night so again one can sit on the veranda and watch the animals go by as one sips one’s gin and tonic.

After a swim in a beautiful pool we went out again in the safari van in search of lion and leopard. The start was slow but we saw thousands of animal next to and in the shallow swamp. We even saw more hippos grazing while semi submerged in the grass. This is not a typical swamp but a wet area without trees that is mainly mud and short plants. Zebras and Gnus stay on the hard ground next to the swamp so that they can run if attacked. Elephants and hippos wade right in.

We were in search of cats and initially saw none but eventually came across a lion taking a snooze. We wanted to see some action but all he did in half and hour was to turn over. We headed back somewhat dejected. However, we soon came across 4 leopards that were stalking wildebeest. There were thousands that got out of the way of the cats. After the cats passed the wildebeest seemed to follow the cats. Strange? However, the cats did not seem to find the right beast so never connected. We returned to the Amboseli Serena lodge. After freshening up I sat on the veranda and watched hundreds of animals pass at close range as the hotel was right next to a major game path. They were mainly zebra, Gnu and various antelope. Not long after the parade stopped for the night. Bob and Kay came later and did not get to see any of the animals. We then had an elegant Swahili dinner that included goat on a spit which was very tasty. There were many other delicious dishes, some I recognized. I went to be to bed by 9:30. We have really been on the go and the extra sleep was welcome.

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